I guess day 1: sometime last week I checked the report and it looked like fun chunky peaks out @ sunset and being that I missed the waves the weekend before because I was attending Warrens wedding cograts again... anyway so I missed then those waves so I had to get what I thought we're some leftovers. So I just droped everything and grabbed the 6'0 fish and went all alone. It was solid waste high wind chop with fun chunky peaks everywhere and the water was warm and the crowd was all spread out so I surfed for like 2 hours and cought some fun little banngers nothing rad but it felt so good to be in warm water again.
The next day: just like the day before on;y a little bigger and had the same frame of mind that I need to just go grab it well I can so I just grabbed the fish and straight back to sunset and as I just said it was just like the day before.
I think day 3: the waves we're still here and getting better I knew I should have taken the whole day off called some palls and headed down south for some sizeablle fun surf, but I didn't I hung around and did some stuff in the morning ate some lunch and then went straight back to sunset with the fish alone... when I got there arround 3:30 or so the wave were chest high to bigger on the drop in & it had a little line too it and the crowd factor was absolutly insane you'd think it was the final day of the triple crown or something cameras all over the beach dudes pulling up with 6 boards in there car broho's up and down the beach hanging with the posers that just sit on the beach waxing the super white new ...Lost they've had for 3 years now and hope people see em' anyway didn't mean to get carried away there but hey everybody it's not "that good". So where was I yeah I was disgusted by the crowd and didn't have much motivation to join the circus then I decide to take a walk down to the jetty and I'm so glad I did It was big peaky and fun with only one dude out, he was cool too so it made for a good time. If you've ever surfed the sunset jetty on a fun wind swell then you know how it gets if not I'll give you a quick recap of how the waves we're. Sit outside and wait for the big peaks grab one drop in get a good line and surf it all the way to the shorebreak double up and then try to avoid the rocks... If that doesen't make any sense owell I'm a little tired. So I surfed the jetty for like over 3 hours and then on my way In I noticed my brother Austin was out with Tyler so I went back out for a little longer and goofed of in the shorebreak it was fun.
Ofcourse that night I checked the pictures from down south and it was way bigger and better but it's all good I still had fun.
Next day I had to help Brando move so I missed out but Ausitn made it out and from what I hear it was classic no wind small waves with long lines and warm water.
Day 4 I think: Had some work I had to get done in the morning and by the look of the winds & the tides I had a little time on my hands so eventually I made my way toward the beach I underestimated things this day I thought it was going to be small with a little wind chop so I grabed the 9'6 long dong and just went to sunset again (should've gone south) I pulled up to find nobody out which was great and big chopy surf. I grab the big board and went for it anyway... it's not like I had something better to do well I'm glad I did because it was fun. I was sitting way outside and when the big meatballs came rolling in I'd grab it early hold the rail and drop down the face then just haul ass down a big sloppy face all the way to shore... so much fun
Next day: the waves picked up even more and so did the wind so learning my lesson I grabbed my 6'4 shortboard and headed over the skyway and went to 3 piers, figured I could find some sort of wind block. Waves were on average chest high with the occasional head high set the drift was crazy and the wind was gnarly but I had so much fun it actually felt like a huricane swell I got a handfull of really fun really good rides.
The last day: everybody was predicting good clean waves with some size to it. Well the waves we're good & clean but not much size, it was steady thigh high with occasional waist high set. Worn out, tired & not feeling like driving I grabbed my 9'6 long dong and went back to sunset to find small waves with 100 shortboarders with something to prove, it was alot to the other day but I wont get into that again. So this time I just went right out in the middle of the circus with a big ol' board yeah I was that guy and it was fun as hell just catching wave after wave and riding down the beach thru mulpiple sections causing tons of kooks to back off when they saw me and my big green railed board coming straight for em' I didn't grab any noses or anything like that though... (I tried to be not that big of an ass hole) eventually i was able to clear out a big section all to myself and spent over 3 hours just cruisen' down the clean lines. Austin eventauly made it out again and I surfed with him for a little bit which is always fun. Around 1 oclock I decided to call it a day when I was at the shower the classic tourist who wants to talk about the waves approched me
Tourist: How was it out there
Me: Actually alot of fun
Tourist: Really!
Me: Yep
Tourist: wow looks like it's breaking to fast to get a good ride
Me: nope it's fun
Tourist: Dude you need to go out to San Diego that's where the good waves are
Me: Yeah I've been to San Diego (I swear I was nice)
Tousrist: oh.... well... oh
I just got done surfing really fun waves in WARM water for I don't know 5 or 6 days straight in practicly my backyard. Don't tell me I gotta go to San Diego when I'm having a great time right here in FLORIDA....
see ya'll next swell
J.
Heres a couple pics I grabbed of gulfster.com check out the site all the photos you need.
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